Spares For Sale & Wotsitoff !
The majority of mechanical spare parts are the same as those fitted to Triumph TR2/3/4s. Many of these may be seen in the specifications page of this site. On the whole, spares to keep your Peerless/Warwick in good working order are freely available from numerous sources, however it is sad to say that quality is an issue with a small but significant number of suppliers. If you have any comments (good or bad) please contact the register
If you have any spares for sale/exchange please let me know and I will post them here/spread the word in the Peerless/Warwick community ! (whichever you prefer).
Click the link below to see a fantastic directory
of classic car and restoration related companies
Spares For Sale/Wanted/Exchange
|
For
Sale/ |
Item |
Price |
Contact |
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For Sale |
W arwick GT wiring looms (similar to Peerless but will need slight modifications ) |
£130 + postage |
Autosparks .The Registrar |
|
For Sale |
High quality reproduction Peerless Chassis Plates click here to see a picture. |
Absolute bargain ! £15 + postage |
Peter Hudspith via The Registrar |
|
For Sale |
Phase II Peerless script badges |
£22.70+VAT+postage |
Denpart Emblems |
|
For Sale |
Rear light chrome rims |
£31.99+VAT+postage |
Ashwater forge and foundry Ltd, Devon UK
Item No 13/0199 |
|
For Sale |
A limited number of Phase 1 Peerless chrome Headlight Rims click here to see a picture. |
£80 (+VAT) a pair but they are Hen's Teeth ! | |
|
For Sale |
Warwick Boot Hinges |
In the order of £25 dependent on whether you want perfect or slight seconds |
SC Parts Group, Crawley, Essex, UK Phone : 01293 547841 |
|
For Sale |
Peerless/Warwick glass Front Windscreens |
£188 inc VAT |
Charles Pugh (Windscreen) Ltd 54-74 Holmes Road, Kentish Town, London, NW5 3AN, England Tel: + 44 (0) 171 267
7011, Fax: + 44 (0) 0171 485 0180
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Wanted/ Exchange |
Any Peerless/Warwick/Relevant TR spares |
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|
Wanted |
Peerless/Warwick Window winder Mechanism (Fast leverarm type) |
Several members require these. | |
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Wanted |
Peerless/ Warwick steering wheels (3 required) click here for a picture. |
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|
Wanted |
Any original or good copies of Peerless/Warwick emblems/badges. |
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|
Wanted |
Warwick chrome bonnet strip click here for a picture. |
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|
Wanted |
Warwick radiator cowl (glass fibre) click here for a picture. |
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|
Wanted |
Any original Peerless/Warwick literature (copies will suffice if you don't want to part with them, any expenses incurred will be reimbursed). |
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To add your details to this list or indeed any comments whatsoever, please e-mail me at the following address The Registrar
Below is a list of a few random part numbers and details of other cars that may use the same parts. For more specific information or indeed if you know 'which parts are off what' please e-mail me.
Wotsitoff !
|
ITEM |
PART No |
SIMILAR TO |
|
Ignition coil (Lucas sports) |
DLB105 |
All early TRs and many marques of the period. |
|
Rear reverse/number plate light (Lucas) |
53159B |
Rover P4 etc |
|
Starter motor (Lucas long nose type) |
25541H |
TR2 |
|
Doorlock striker plate |
U/K |
Wolseley 1500, Riley 1.5, Austin A50 |
|
Fast window winding mechanism |
. |
Rover 75 pre P4 suicide door model (rear doors only) |
|
Brake and Clutch master cylinder (Girling) |
. |
Landrover series 1/2/3 |
|
Clutch slave cylinder |
. |
1" bore late Triumph Vitesse |
|
Warwick external boot hinges |
. |
Austin Healey 100 |
|
Exterior door handles |
. |
Standard 8/10, Triumph Mayflower |
|
Exterior door handle locating cup thing ! |
. |
Morris Isis |
|
Rear Lights (Lucas) (Chrome rims are available separately please e-mail me for details) |
. |
Alvis, Aston Martin DB4, Rolls Royce |
|
Warwick parcel shelf light |
. |
Mini Cooper interior light |
|
Rear axle bearings (in de Dion tube) |
Timken 2523S & 2585. (Race & Cup) These two parts assemble to make one bearing, 4 complete bearings are needed per car. |
NOT TR ! |
|
Rear axle hub oil seals |
Payen (Brake drum side(small )) NA297. (Diff side (large)) NA562 |
Small seal only, same as TR3A |
|
Differential carrier silent blocks, the type is C11821, used for rear leaf springs on all XK type Jaguars. (Information provided by Erik De Vries (Many Thanks Erik)
|
C11821 |
|
|
Half shaft flange on its own |
Hardy Spicer K1300YSB |
? |
|
Half shaft complete |
Hardy Spicer 52-0223(half) |
Euro Driveshafts Ltd see below £75 each complete. |
|
etc etc etc............ |
For more information (flowing in either direction) |
contact The Registrar |
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Stevensons Motors contacted me a while ago and asked If I would provide a listing on the P&W website, I have not used this company myself so I cannot comment on their goods or services. If you try them, please let me have your feedback.
Stevson Motors
Stevson Motors - Specialist classic car hydraulic component manufacturers of brake pipe kits and hoses, fuel pipe kits and hoses, oil pressure gauge pipes and hoses. Factory trained reconditioners of classic & vintage Luvax, Girling & Armstrong lever arm and telescopic shock absorbers. Parts for Jaguar, MG, Austin Healey, Triumph, Rover, Rolls Royce, Ferrari, etc, etc.. Commercial and military vehicle applications also stocked. Fast, efficient, knowledgeable and friendly service from a family firm established for over 60 years....
Unit 1, 2A Harrow Road,
Selly Oak,
Birmingham,
B29-7DN,
Great Britain,
Tel: 0121 4721702
Fax: 0121 471 3312
Email: stevsonmotors1@aol.com
Website www.stevsonmotors.co.uk
Registrars comments in red text.
The following list refers to those suppliers that Frank Wright used during the rebuild of his Phase 2 Peerless. Frank has highlighted when the suppliers have websites and indeed some have on-line catalogues. So, many thanks indeed to Frank for this invaluable resource. If you have similar information please let us know and we will post it on this page so that more Peerlesses/Warwicks can be restored with greater ease.
Easily Obtained Items.
Most mechanical items are shared with TR3, and readily available from your preferred TR Register Approved supplier. I'm not going into this section in any detail except to warn you to be a bit picky about the quality of components, as some are manufactured in the Far East and may not be up to the job. Purists will of course want to track down OE Stanpart items, but these are getting very difficult to find now. Reproduction rubber items seem particularly suspect, and I think it's better to upgrade to polybush or nylatron items in the suspension wherever possible.
As registrar I am constantly receiving comments about the extremely low quality of many 'white box' foreign and even some new UK parts (especially rubber components) , all I can say is keep your receipts and make a note of where you buy everything (things soon get forgotten during a long rebuild project). Most of all complain directly at the highest level possible.We must fight companies who think that we are simply here to be ripped off and that our safety is trivial.
A must-have item is the Moss TR3 Catalogue.
Even if you don’t buy anything else from them, the exploded diagrams are really well detailed and as good as a works manual for the TR3 sourced parts of the car.
Moss Europe Ltd
Unit 16, Hampton Farm Ind Est
Bolney Way
Hanworth
Feltham
Middlesex
TW13 6DB
Tel: 020 8867 2020
Harder to Find.
These are items that are either unique to a Peerless, or shared with something that you’ve never heard of. Several useful tips are embedded in the text.
Chassis
This is built up from lengths of Rectangular Hollow Section, Electrically Resistance Welded (referred to as RHS/ERW) tube with a 1.6 mm wall thickness. The "standard supply length" is 6M and for a full rebuild you'll need
7 0ff of 25 x 38 mm and
3 off 38 x 38 mm
Goodman Steel Services Ltd
98, Cardiff Rd
Reading
Berkshire
RG1 8LL
Tel: 0118 956 1212
Some offcuts of plate will probably be needed for the footwells, and for the pedal box mount as it corrodes where water lays on the flat part. This can get expensive if you ask the supplier to cut peices for you so recycling or scrounging offcuts is strongly reccomended.
The apron panel behind the engine is usually preserved by oil mist, I drilled out the spotwelds and re-used it. Most of the brackets and fittings will probably have survived, they are generally of much thicker material.
The front turrets are a complex assembly, and I do know people who have managed to fabricate replacements. However, they are identical to the TR3 and are available as repair components from.
C.T.M Engineering
Unit 3a, Bury Farm,
Curbridge
Botley
Southampton
Hampshire
SO30 2HB
Tel: 01489 782054
http://www.ctmengineering.co.uk/
Because I found cracks in my original chassis, I reinforced it around the lower bump-stop bolt tubes, across to the cross member and where the turrets join the down-tubes from under the dash.
Note: Warwicks are different and much stronger here, the turrets and engine mounts have a full-width stiffening plate, and the down tubes are different as well. (I think Frank is referring to the V8 Warwick here).
I'm using TR3 Spax Gas shocks. Front Suspension items are all TR3.
I omitted the Ali spring spacer, and used 390lb Rally Front springs
from...
Cambridge Motor Sport
Caxton Rd
Great Gransden
Sandy
Bedfordshire
SG19 3AH
Tel: 01767 677969
http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com/
The rear springs were specials when new, allegedly modified TR3 components. I'm using TR4 Heavy Duty competition leaf springs supplied by Moss (see above) but with reset ride height and an extra one and a half leaves. These are a bit too stiff for comfort, but brilliant when carrying all the camping gear to Le-Mans.
Jones Springs (Engineering) Ltd
Gladstone St
Darliston
Wednesbury
West Midlands
WS10 8BE
Tel: 0121 568 7575
http://www.jones-springs.co.uk/
The front inside mount for the rear spring was a bolt and bracket when new, a useful improvement is to add an extra strut and support tube on the inner face of the spring, and ream it to take a pin, as per the TR3 fitting.
I just made a much stronger bracket from 0.25 inch thick flat bar which meant I could use the existing Warwick bolts.
Brakes
Green Front Pads for the early TR3A Calipers (and a limited No of grooved Brake Disks) have been produced.In conjunction with the servo assistance this ensures no more adrenaline moments, and it stops as easily and quickly as a modern car. The remote servo is bolted to the front face of the drivers door hinge plate, so it’s hidden up inside the wing.
Brake Servo from
J and L Spares
Trows Mill
Trows Lane
Castleton
Rochdale
Lancashire
OL11 2UF
Tel: 01706 644210
Green Pads and slotted Disks
Various local suppliers, I purchased mine at the TR International show in Malvern
The Universal Joint at the front of the propshaft is a standard TR3 component. The Layrub unit at the diff end seems to be unobtainable (but some spares held by register members)
As far as I am aware the rubber couplings are now freely available , please contact me if you require one.
The differential is a Salisbury 3HA, these were supplied in several variations to lots of small manufacturers so autojumble finds may not be interchangeable. Some 4.1 ratios exist but the standard fit was a 3.7. It can be rebuilt, but it'll be expensive if the Crown Wheel or Pinion has gone. Salisbury now recommend EP140 as lubricant, apparently it works better with the tooth profile, and copes with internal condensation and occasional use.
Salisbury Transmissions Thanks must go to Frank Jones for finding Salisbury Transmissions after all these years.
Unit 7 & 8 Bayworks,
Pevensey
East Sussex
BN24 6EG
Tel: 01323 743334
http://www.salisburytransmissions.com/
Halfshafts UJ's are the same as standard TR, but brand new sliding
shafts complete with UJ's are only £70 each.
The sliding splines are much better than the originals and stop a lot
of the “shunt” in the transmission, (especially if you have a
lightened flywheel and sports cam).
EURO Driveshafts & Hydraulics, Thanks must go to Mike Ramsay-Frazer for discovering this information (much appreciated Mike)
Tannahill,
Kilmaurs,
Ayrshire,
KA3 2LN
Scotland, UK
Tel: +44(0)1563 538011
http://www.eurodriveshafts.com/
The De-Dion apparently lasts for ever, but for Bearings and Seals, see the Peerless website list. Beware, it needs a VERY LARGE hydraulic press to dismantle it!
The threaded Rear hub Wheel Studs are a bit fragile, it's useful to drill them out and replace them with the heavier press-in pattern as used on the front hubs. I could not agree more with this advice, this is a very important safety point especially when the hubs are heading towards their 50th birthday !
Electrical
Headlights and indicators, are regular TR3 components.
Fitting Lucas PL tripod replicas allows the use of UEC compatible
Halogen bulbs. Less convincing replica tripods with halogen bulbs and
sidelights are around if you really must have orange front
indicators.
Be prepared to part with a lot of money for the
Tripod P700 etc.
Europa Specialist Spares Ltd
307a, Fauld Ind Est
Burton-On-Trent
Staffordshire
DE13 9HS
Tel: 01283 815609
Phase 1 Headlight rims have been remanufactured by the TR Register. Phase 2 uses Morris Minor / Mini items. The rear lights are shared with Aston Martins, so are very expensive, (nearly £200 each new from Holden) and very seldom seen at autojumbles. Conclusion: avoid rear-end shunts!
Holden Vintage & Classic,
Linton Trading Estate,
Bromyard,
Herefordshire.
HR7 4QT
Tel:01885 488488
Instruments and dash switches are available at autojumbles, shared
with TR3.
The capillary Temperature Gauges are pretty much unobtainable (around
£200 if you can find one).
A more common TR4 electrical gauge can be modified to look like the
real thing, but may need a voltage stabiliser in the circuit to give
a reliable reading.
The tank changeover switch seems to be unique, beware of electronic
sourced equivalents because they may not rated for the Fuel Pump
current.
The wiring harness is obviously unique.
Autosparks have a harness pattern for a Warwick (not the same as a
Peerless), but they are reasonably easy to make up yourself using the
circuit diagram as a reference.This allows ancillaries like a washer
pump and radiator fan to be built in, and industrial strength
earthing arrangements to be added.
Using the non-sticky wrap tape gives an acceptable finish, and not
all cars had the flecked cotton overbraid.
Though the Autosparks looms are for Warwick
they are quite close to Peerless so might be worth using especially
if you prefer the cotton overbraid. One of the few examples of
significant difference is that you will have to extend the wire to
the heater fan as this is mounted behind the near side front wing
(behind the headlights) on the Peerless but only just behind the
engine on the Warwick.
Frank has further commented........
You will be very clever if you can get the Autosparks harness to fit
a Peerless. The reason I couldn't was that the instrument wiring
won't reach, because the Warwick has them in the middle. By the time
you manage to sort this out (without adding extra joints or chocolate
blocks) you'll have cut away just about all of the braid that can be
seen under the bonnet.
And, like I said, adding an extra heavy duty earth return to all of the runs means that you don't have to depend on a dodgy chassis bolt for a good earth. This gives you bright lights, reliable electrics and zero gremlins! The original harness design is very poor for earths, I think that the electrons were expected to make their own way back to the battery. Interestingly, all of the earth returns from the rear light clusters were also routed to the right hand fuel tank sender, an ideal spot to have a burn-out!
Having gone to all that bother, I'm now converting to an alternator, which allows me to have an alarm, a rear screen heater, and electronic ignition, as well as not having to worry about how much the radiator fan or halogen headlights are drawing. It does mean that the ammeter has to come out, because it won't handle the charge current.
So there you have it folks, it might just be better to make your own after all. If you 've come up with a solution please let us know and we'll print it here.
All my electrical fittings use an additional earth return of at least 28/030, commoned around the car, and grounded to the chassis bolts at 8 points (headlights, steering box, control box, battery, both tank sensors, and both rear lights). Along with soldered bullets and new connectors, this gives nice bright lights and zero gremlins.
Auto Sparks
80-88 Derby Road
Sandiacre
Nottingham
NG10 5HU
0115 949 7211
Body Fittings
The radiator is unique to the car. Apparently it's a modified Standard-Triumph component but the mods are crude, and overheating is a perrennial problem. The long neck to the filler is prone to damage because it was welded (not soldered) to the rest of the radiator, so don't lean on it. Having a header tank or overflow seems to help, as does putting a bolt into the top of the thermostat housing to allow the system to be topped right up. I had mine rebuilt with a more efficient high performance core. Coupled with an electrical fan, this kept the water temperature below 90 Deg C in the staionary Le-Mans rush-hour traffic, when the air temperature was above 30 Deg C.
Berkshire Radiators
266, Gosbrook Rd
Caversham
Reading
Berkshire
RG4 8EA
Tel: 0118 947 3501
Because the ventilation fan’s hidden behind the headlight in the wing, I used a modern SPAL fan and supply pipes from EuropaSpares. This is multi-speed as a bonus.
Door Handles are Standard-Triumph, but several very similar models exist. Door Catches and fittings are probably Standard as well, both of these are seldom seen at autojumbles. The little cup arrangement at the front of the handle is very fragile and very difficult to replace.
Door handles are Triumph Mayflower or Standard 8/10 (all Wilmott Breadon) The small cup (like a camera flash 'hot shoe' !) for the handle are from the Morris Isis. Door lock and catch plates are Wolseley 1500, Riley 1.5 or Austin A50.
Quick-action window winders and handles from the Bright Manufacturing Co seem to be unique, can be assembled for RH or LH use, are difficult to set up, and very much in demand as well.
These quick action mechanisms were fitted to London Cabs and in the rear of the (original) Rover 75 (Pre P4)
Internal Door Handles and Pulls are common with several models.
The window frames are unique, but are only built up from chromed brass U-section. Some spares are around from scrapped cars. The thick felt that the glass slides in is available from Woolies, see below. This is a mite thicker than the original and can make the windows stiff to open and close when it gets wet.
Ph 1 Door hinges unique, and pretty flimsy. The doors are not as strong either.
Ph 2 Door hinges look like they came from a railway carriage so you are unlikely to break them.
Door and Window Fittings are the most difficult part of the car to rebuild. It would probably be fine if the machinery was supported by a solid structure, but it’s built up from several bits of tin inside a wobbly GRP box. Ph2 cars are better off, not all the window glass has to move, and the door frame’s a bit stronger.
Paint
Although this isn’t strictly a component, these guys were so helpful, they deserve a special mention for GRP supplies and colour-matched cellulose paint.
Automotive Paint Supplies
Unit 1,Consort Premises,
13-37 Boundary Rd
Newbury ,
Berkshire
RG14 5RR
Tel: 01635 42790
Windscreens are available (about 6 weeks delivery if there isn't one in stock)
Charles (Glass) Pugh Ltd
Brookhill Ind Est,
Longwood Rd
Pinxton
Nottingham
NG16 6NT
Tel: 01773 581458
The rear screen is unobtainable but the remainder of glass is flat.
Front and rear screen rubber sections, with the chrome trim are available, and the special tool makes fitting very much easier. (Woolies)
Trim materials, including door and window seals, vinyl and white piping, are available from stock. Headlining and Dash Material unobtainable but several similar patterns of headlining are available and Cabrio Hooding makes a fair substitute for the Dash covering.
Woolies I & C Woolstenholmes Ltd
Whitley Way,
Northfields Ind Est
Market Deeping
Peterborough
Cambridgeshire
PE6 8AR
Tel: 01778 347347
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/
Very Difficult to Obtain
If you’ve lost one of these, you'll be very lucky to find another.
Contact the Peerless and Warwick register, offer a suitable reward,
and hope.
If you know of any good suppliers of quality parts that can be used on Peerless/Warwick please let me know by contacting the register.
Caveat
While I have tried to ensure that the content of this site is accurate, I cannot completely guarantee its authenticity. If you find that any parts information on this site is incorrect please contact me and I will rectify it.
